Removing rust – the experiments (v): Evaporust epilog

As a final word on using Evaporust, here are a couple of extra experiments. The first is the lateral adjustment lever mentioned in the previous post. You can see the visual difference between the rust-free region on the left, and the rusty region on the right. This took 2-3 hours.

A rusty lateral adjustment lever

And finally, a rusty cast iron lever cap. After spending about 4 hours in the Evapo-rust, presto! rust-be-gone!

Lever cap, before (left) and after Evapo-rust

 

 

 

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3 thoughts on “Removing rust – the experiments (v): Evaporust epilog

  1. Joe says:

    Thank you for this series. Out of curiosity for the Evaporust, have you let a part sit for an extended time to see if it does anything to the metal itself and not rust?

    • spqr says:

      I have left pieces in for 7-10 days, and there is no apparent issue with the Evaporust effecting the metal once the rust is gone. After the rust goes, there is always a dark gray coating left on the metal.

    • David says:

      I have used Evaporust with great success. I have found that a 24 hour soak (fully submerged without any parts touching in the solution) works great for a lightly rusted, but un-pitted tool. Using a 3M “000” refinishing pad throughout the process on exposed metal surfaces yields an easier final clean up with a nice gun metal finish (some patina without defacing the tool). I do not use the pads on any plated items. The final results with Evaporust does not look unlike using 3M “000” pads with Johnson’s Wax as a solvent and lubicant. I still get a nice gun metal finish with Johnsons Wax, but it takes a lot more elbow grease than using Evaporust. With a heavily rusted tool, Evaporust is the only way to go. Again, in-process scrubbing with a 3M “000” pad means less work in the end. Evaporust does not affect plating like electrolysis (but it will remove blueing) and if the soak/scrub cleaning is limited to about 24 hours, it has minimum affect on japaning. Evaporust can yield a tool surprisingly in much better shape than an initial evaluation of a tool when it is heavily rusted. Evaporust gets into everywhere which worked on a Stanley No. 78 I found. The spur screw was rust solid, but came out easily after soaking. If a plane lever cap has gray mat fill around the logo like pre-WWII Stanleys, I use 3M pads and Johnsons Wax to preserve the fill arount the logo. After final clean up, I use Butcher’s or bowling alley wax as a final dry protection finish. This is pure carnuba which is hard and does not go away over time like Johnsons Wax. If the lever cap is plated and there are rusty pits with pieces of the platting sticking up, a piece of suede leather with some yellow polishing/rubbing compound can be used to smooth the lever cap without agressive remove of the rust or plating.

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