Identifying mystery planes: Bespoke plane-maker?

In a the comments section recently, a reader (Jim K) asked me to help identify a plane. It is a bullnose plane, from the U.K. with the initials “LLN” on its side. I managed to find a similar plane online, a shoulder rebate plane with the same LLN marking. Given my literature, it was seemingly impossible to find any information relating to these planes. Online it was similarly challenging (although online always is).

It seems like a plane that could have commonly existed, but there doesn’t seem to be much in the way of sales out there in the inter-web. Were theses planes constructed in some small town industry, or was it a bespoke planemaker? There are inherent similarities between the shoulder plane and the Record shoulder rebate plane No.041. The design shares the same curves and structure, so I imagine this plane might have been modelled after it?

The mystery LLN bullnose plane

The shoulder rebate plane

The planes were both sold on eBay and described as being made of bronze. This might be because hand-machining bronze might be easier than other ferrous metals? On first inspection it doesn’t have the same colour as brasses commonly used in modern planes, but given there are many differing type of brass, with differing percentages of copper and zinc, it is hard to determine the exact type (short of some type of testing, see Refs.). The bullnose plane has a blade made by Edward Preston & Sons, but blades don’t tell the full story, as they are easily substituted.

Were these hand-made once-offs? There may be some tell-tale signs. Here are some of my thoughts (using some close-up pictures provided by Jim K.):

• The planes have a large percentage of their sides dedicated to decorative depressions. Traditionally, larger manufacturers added these depressions sparingly (probably due to their expense). Edward Preston produced a lot of planes with very decorative sides.
• On many rebate planes, the depressions are textured, but in these planes they are not. The depressions have a coarse look to them, implying that they were cast, or roughly machined in some manner.

Image showing the depression regions of the sides of the bullnose plane (JimK)

• Sometimes the depressions are made in the process of “sculpting” a relief to form a logo, or other letters. Some manufacturers, when adding markings such as ‘MADE IN ENGLAND” form them in such as manner that the top of the letters are cut slightly lower than the side of the plane. The LLN markings are not.
• These planes are generally cast, then machined. There seem to be milling marks on some edges of the plane (e.g. top), which is not unrealistic given the nature of bronze, The image below shows this in addition to the rough casting internally. The lines of the curves of the plane body, don’t seem precise, there are places where they seem a bit jagged.
  

Rough milling marks (JimK)

• There are a lot of parts on the lever cap that seem roughly finished after casting.

Rough finishing (JimK)

• The LLN mark is different on both planes, leading one to believe the maker was experimenting. Most manufacturers don’t use such large markings on the side of the plane.
• On the shoulder plane, the knurling on the blade depth adjustment mechanism differs from that on the lever cap (an inconsistency which a manufacturer wouldn’t allow).

Textured detail on a Preston rebate plane

It is therefore quite conceivable that both these planes were bespoke planes made by a planemaker in a local area, not unlike modern planemakers. Popular Mechanics ran articles on casting with bronze throughout the years, so it would have been somewhat easy to do in a good home workshop. Here is an article from Sauer&Steiner who talks about five unfinished bullnose plane castings he bought from England.

NB: It is possible some parts on these planes were cannibalized from other broken planes, and the bodies built around them. If anyone else has ever seen this make, please let me know.

Refs:
R.E. Edwards, “Casting Bronzes in the Home Workshop”, Popular Mechanics, May 1932, pp.867-869
“Simple Methods Identify Metal of Broken Castings”, Popular Mechanics, Sept. 1940, pp.477-479

The Twelve Tools of Christmas – 2020

2020 hasn’t exactly turned out to be a great year. Getting stuck at home for this amount of time is a bummer… but it is somewhat good for getting small projects done (or at least that’s the theory). With the supply-chain being what it is this year, best to get in early.

1. The Anarchist’s Workbench by Christopher Schwarz. (Lee Valley, C$34.50), but it is a free PDF download. If you like historical books, this is the last in the Anarchist series, and looks at the history of workbenches.
2. This was on my list last year, but makes it again… a Japanese tool, more specifically a plane (kanna). I have bought two planes from Tokyocraft on Etsy. They always have great second-hand Japanese tools, and reasonably priced.
3. An axe from Toronto Blacksmith. I haven’t bought one yet, but they seem well designed, nicely made, and local.
4. Ever wanted a Stanley No.1? Likely too costly, but now there is an option from Lee Valley, the Veritas Bevel-Up #1 Plane. A different take on the No.1 with a bevel-up blade. (C$249)
5. Need a tiny pocket plane. something that would fit in an. apron pocket? Try the Veritas Pocket Plane. This thing is tiny and so well made. Veritas is a true innovator when it comes to planes. (C$119)
6. Japanese saws are easy to use, and quick. What about a Convex Crosscut Kabata, designed to use the natural arc of your arm as you saw. (C$39.50)
7. Not really a tool per se, except for drinking coffee in the workshop, but the Kupilka seems like a cool idea. Made of wood fibre and thermoplastic they are made in Finland. (210ml, Canadian Outdoor Equipment C$33.25)
8. A carving tool from Chipping Away perhaps? This Canadian store is a one-stop shop for carving tools… from beginner to experienced carver, there is something for everyone, including some neat bird carving kits.
9. Combination blue (4000 grit) and yellow (6000-8000 grit) coticule sharpening stones from Belgian. Various sizes and slurry stones, from Fendrihan.
10. Sharpening stones need flattening? Diamond lapping plates, 300 and 800 grit (C$65 and $80 at Knife).
11. It may seem odd to use a broom, versus a vacuum, but there is something inherently satisfying about using a hand-made broom to clean up wood shavings. I have a couple from the Granville Island Broom Co. Less noisy too. Or perhaps a Swedish dust brush or Japanese Bunnuku dust pan?
12. Sometime in the workshop a folding rule is a convenient way to measure things 1-2m in length… way better than a tape measure. Big Bear Tools has Hultafors brand in 1 & 2m lengths, in wood, aluminum or fibreglass, metric/imperial. For a great overview of these oft-forgotten measuring tools, check of the Hultafors website.

A Finnish Kupilka

There are also a myriad of custom hand tool makers out there. Maybe a beautiful handcrafted custom hammer from British company Kinetic Customs, or a replica Medieval tools from Daegrad Tools in Sheffield (England).

Things you should know about owning an old house

Houses were built somewhat differently in the past. In fact even those that were built as “workers cottages”, i.e. built quickly or cheaply are better built than some houses today. Lumber used in construction is often old growth, and closer to the true dimensions of 2×4. That being said, here are some things I have learned over the years of owning an old semi-detached house. This is a follow on from a past post, Buying an old house? Make sure you know something about its life.

• Power-washing – Power washing is good for a lot of things, but not old bricks, or art least not at high pressure. Low pressure, maybe with come sort of detergent might work. Old bricks were likely not of made too the same standards as today, and high pressure power-washing will pit the surface of the brick, making it even more porous. I’ll live with the patina rather than make the brick look new. The pictures below show the pitted, power-washed brick (left), versus the old brick with its inherent patina (right). (My neighbour had the power washing done on the central shared column of the semi, which I stopped as soon as I realized what they were doing).

• Lathe-and-plaster – There is nothing inherently wrong with lathe and plaster, and walls where it is sound can be left alone.
• Trim and doors – Trim and doors were often varnished as new, and painted numerous times over the years (likely at some point with lead-based paint). Stripping 50+ years of paint is *not* trivial, and unfortunately may not be worth it (I have tried). Even the best “green” chemicals will have a hard time. Either repaint over them, or actually replace the trim/doors. On another note, trim is often made with wood that dries an incredible amount, making it very brittle to remove (i.e. it basically splinters). I replaced all the trim in my house with similar historic-era profiles made of poplar (from Central Fairbanks Lumber, Toronto).
• Open concept – Lots of people think this is a great idea, then proceed to delineate “rooms” with furniture. While it may seem like a good idea in a small house, rooms do have a function. Smells from the kitchen permeate through open spaces much quicker (unless you have a good exhaust fan, something people rarely think of). While a lot of houses like semi-detached do not have load-bearing walls, you have to think a little about the fact that walls do serve a purpose.
• Basement lowering – Our basement is 6 feet tall, which is enough for us. Many people who buy semi’s end up lowering the basement, to get 7-8 feet of headroom. These old basements were never designed to be lived in, and there are issues with lowering them. Foremost, if you lower the basement, likely the sewer line will also have to be lowered, which may require some sort of engineering to make it work. Walls will need to be underpinned as well.
• Back-flow valves – Three words… “get one installed”. Many semi-detached houses share the sewer line somewhere in the front of the house. If you have trees, you will have roots, and all the fun that comes with them. Installing a back flow valve prevents stuff back flowing into the basement if there is a blockage (it’s happened to us twice because of tree roots, and the valve worked perfectly). Maintain the back-flow valve.
• Sewer lines – If your house has clay pipes, and it might, get them inspected, and if needed replaced. Often the place where the pipes attach to the cast iron stack is a problem after 75+ years, although the stack itself might be okay. If you don’t have a 4″ PVC clean-out access point in front of the house, you likely have some level of clay/cast-iron pipe.
• Insulation – Outside walls in old houses are rarely insulated, especially upstairs. If you want to improve the insulation on an old house, fix the exterior walls, and insulate the attic. Roofs were often built without ventilation, because heating was much reduced than it is today. I tried all manner of ventilation, but found the best approach is to use close-cell spray foam under the roof joints to make the attic a semi-conditioned space. This actually helps lengthen the lifespan of a roof, as the attic does not become an oven in summer, and a freezer in winter. In winter, the coldest it gets is 10°C. Make proper choices, and have insulation work done by a reputable company.
• Roofs – Semi-detached houses often have a mix of peaked roof (front), and flat roof (back). Good, modern flat roofs generally last a good amount of time because of the multiple layers involved. Asphalt shingles just don’t and they are so environmentally unfriendly it isn’t funny (and 30-year roofs do *not* last half that time). Spend the money once, and put in a 50-year metal roof.